Large openings need large doors. This door is 7’6″ tall and 4’6″ wide. This size would only be available as a custom purchase. The few custom barn-door websites I found gave quotes starting at $1,100 for a very basic door, plus hardware. That’s a lot of $$$ so I built this one for $95 in lumber and $75 in hardware.
I did not buy a rail kit because all of the kits I saw in the length I needed, used two separate rails to reach the length needed. I wanted a single piece rail so I went to local sheet-metal supply yard and purchased 10′ of 1.25″x1/8″ steel bar for about $11. I cut that down to about 9.5′ length. My recommendation for anyone replicating would be to buy a little bit wider bar. 1.5″ bar seems to be the size that most end-stoppers are sized for.
I couldn’t find mounting hardware or standoffs for the rail, at any reasonable price. Instead I went to hardware store, purchased 7 large flat washers, a 2′ piece of 1/2″ diameter (cut into 2″ long pieces for standoffs x 7), and 7 lag bolts. Holes were drilled through the rail. Lag bolts go through the holes in rail, through the copper pipe pieces serving as stand-off, through the washer that keeps the copper pipe from pressing into the sheetrock, and into the holes that were predrilled into the wall-stud/header. Of course the hardware was all spray painted with multiple coats of black paint, but nothing else to it. This method saves you money on hardware and allows for a one piece rail which is much easier to hang than trying to align two separate rails.
The rest of the hardware was purchased on Amazon. The 2 rollers were about $25. The bottom tab that keeps the door from flopping in or out was $12. and the stoppers that are attached on each end of the rail were $13.
Hint: Use a level and make sure bar is level or the door may decide to slide on it’s own. If your door does end-up sliding on it’s own and won’t stay put, the common almost invisible solution is to attach a magnet bar near a top-back corner of door. Then attach a corresponding magnet at a location on the wall where the wall-magnet attracts to the door-magnet and holds it in that open and-or closed position. Use appropriate spacers for offset distance. The magnets should not touch and should provide just enough pull to hold the door from rolling away on it’s own.
The lumber for this door is blue-pine which really is just common pine that was infested by the mountain pine beetle. The outside and cross framing of the door is made with 2 layers of 1×4 in 8 foot lengths (total combined thickness of door is 1.5″) The interior panels are 5″ wide ship-lap (8-feet long, 3/4″ thick). Lumber was purchased at Home-Depot and was less than $100. For my size door, I used 10 pieces of each.